El Travels Bugs once again head back to South Africa to explore new territory.  Yes, we have to endure the long 18-hour flight, but we are pros now on this long journey.  This time the stopover is Dakar, Senegal.  As exciting as this new locale could be… at 3 a.m. there’s not much action going on from the view of our plane’s window.

This trip to South Africa was designed mostly around experiencing the incredible Rovos Railway adventure from Pretoria, South Africa to Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe.  Because the rail trip was our main focus, we allowed more time for jet-lag recovery before our setting off for the rail adventure.  We chose to rest for 3 days at a lovely retreat, called Mount Grace, in the northwest area outside of Johannesburg in the Magaliesburg mountain range.  Our stay included Easter weekend and the hotel was full with family reunions and eager youngsters.  However, giving into the inevitable jet lag, we managed to nap peacefully on our tropical patio over looking the pool where kids played ‘Marco Polo’ for hours.

The area where we stayed is also known as the ‘Cradle of Human Kind’.  It is the largest area in Southern Africa of “Hominid” fossils.  Hominids are today’s human species’ ancestors.  The reason that so many fossils have been found here is the prevalence of limestone, which has protected them over millions of years. There is a wonderful museum that is not only educational but shows how these fossils were discovered through video displays. The most famous discovery is called “Little Foot,” which is 3.3 million years old.  The foot itself has been proven to support weight, concluding that it once was attached to a walking Hominid, just like old grandpa.

Pretoria, the capital of South Africa,

Making our way to Pretoria, we felt rested and ready for our train journey on the Rovos Rail to Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe.  Along our way to the station, we made a pit stop to visit the region’s famous Lion Park, a rescue refuge for wayward wild animals.  Unlike any other lion exhibit, the highlight of this park is the opportunity to go into a lions’ den!  Except, this den is full of sweet cuddly lion cubs, all love to be patted and scratched behind their ears.  We were happy to oblige, and if you felt brave, you could pick one up for a closer cuddle.  Unfortunately, these are orphan cubs will spend their lives here or at a zoo somewhere.

Within the park, we enjoyed a drive through the reserve to view small prides of lions each being rescued or born in this protected area.  It is here that the beautiful yet rare white lions reside, originated from the Timbavati region.  Because of their white coloring, they cannot exist in the wild as they have no way to camouflage themselves from predators.

ROVOS RAIL

The Rovos Rail train journey is a 3-day, 2-night excursion north from northwest South Africa to southern Zimbabwe.  This is a privately owned company in which a wealthy owner bought an old steam engine and railcars of the Edwardian Era and restored each to its present day luxurious condition.  Riding this train was like stepping back in time with modern bathrooms, thank goodness.  The joy is that everything is included in the price of the ride, even the bar facilities.

Our first evening on the train, we dressed for dinner and enjoyed a drink in the bar car with fellow passengers.  Soon after, a ‘gong’ announced that it is time to retreat to the dining car for a delicious five-course meal.  This is the first time that we are introduced to their fabulous ‘olive bread’, which was the cause of our expanded waistlines on this trip. 

Upon retiring after our gourmet meal of local cuisine, the train made a stop in a station and we are all asked to close the blinds.  We were not certain of the reason at the time, but later discovered that there’s a bit of animosity towards the train from the Zimbabwe locals, which was displayed early one morning when a stone was thrown through a window in our car’s corridor.  Fortunately, the train engineers are prepared and promptly replaced the glass. 

With the extreme poverty in Zimbabwe under their oppressive dictator, one can understand how the people must feel.  Although, passing through villages, we find that the most people are smiling and waving like they are glad to see us.  We are intrigued with the large bundles that women easily balance on their heads while leaving their hands free to hold on to little ones.
   

In order to travel through Zimbabwe, we are required to have a Visa, and fortunately, Rovos Rail took care of that for its passengers.  The only thing that they cannot take care of is the condition of the tracks we are riding on.  When we awake our first morning, we are in a large railroad yard in Bulawayo.  We are fascinated with a troop of Baboons playing on the tracks and running along the top of train cars.  We soon learn that we have to switch to another track, as there’s a derailment ahead.  Continuing along in the countryside we see lots of curious trees called, ‘Baobab’.  They look like short fat trees that god turned up side down and letting its roots be exposed.

All goes well with our train journey until we get to an incline and our diesel engine runs out of the power that’s need to pull us over the grade.  We wait for over 3 hours while another engine is brought up from Bulawayo.  In the meantime, it gives us an excuse to have a party in the bar with our fellow travelers.

Early the next morning, we arrive at Hwange National Park in the western part of Zimbabwe.  This is the most famous game park in the country, popular with tourist from Europe.  We go on a game drive to see the herds of wildebeest, zebras, springbok, impala and the beautiful rare sable antelope.  The park is known for its elephant population; however, I think that they all went on a holiday, except one bull that stayed behind to keep an eye out for crazy tourists.  If you are a birder, you will not be disappointed.  We saw the lovely Lilac Breasted Roller and a Secretary bird that seem to enjoy running just ahead of our jeep.

In the late afternoon long before we even reach Victoria Falls, we can see the misty smoke rising up from the falls, understanding its native name of ‘Mosi-oa-Tunya,’ meaning “the Smoke that Thunders.”   It is evening and quite dark by the time we arrive at the Victoria Falls Station, so we gather our luggage and hailed a taxi to take us to the nearby Ilala Lodge, where we met Dalubuhie (Dalie) and his adorable girlfriend, Precious.

Ilala Lodge is perfect for us with a large room on the second floor, including a balcony that overlooks their lovely lawn and the mist rising from the falls in the distance.  A staff member, Dalie, offers to be our guide for a visit to the park where you can view the famous falls.  They tell us to be prepared to get wet, so we dress accordingly.  The falls are truly breath taking.  At a mile wide, we see only a small part but the noise from the thunderous sound of the water and the drenching we get from the mist makes us feel as if we are inside of the falls.  The falls are at their peak, as April is at the end of the rainy season.  Following the ridge facing the giant wall of water, we hike even closer, feeling like we are in a car wash.  The rain ponchos we rent are no help.  Upon returning to our room, we take our soaked clothes off and hang them on the balcony to dry.  Later that afternoon, our maid has brought them inside to dry to keep them from being stolen by the baboons and monkeys, who never tired of looking for anything that they can get sticky paws on.

Of course, the very best way to see the falls is by helicopter, so we sign up for $150.00 per person.  This offers a grand view and the opportunity to see from a bird’s view, but does require our passports to show at the border between Zimbabwe and Zambia.  For this adventure, we cross the bridge that Cecil Rhodes built over the gorge in the early 1900s, dividing the two countries to enter Zambia.  Being the travel pros we are, we manage to find a way to make sure that the EL Travel Bugs get into the cockpit with the pilot for the best viewing. The ride takes about 20 minutes, and is a fantastic way to see how wide the falls are and appreciate their mighty power.  We even see elephants in the Zambezi River above the falls taking a bath near one of the little islands.  Also got a great view of the gorge carved by millions of years from tons of water cascading over falls.  This is definitely the highlight of our visit to Victoria Falls.

Our next destination is Kruger National Park, the largest and most popular game reserve in South Africa.  We fly from the small Victoria Falls airport back to Johannesburg and change planes for our flight to the town of Nelspruit, the main departure point for Kruger.

Read our separate blog on Kruger National Park here---> 

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